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<article class="">			<h1 class="titleBig">Ravioli e guancialino con tanta gentilezza</h1>
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                <time class="published" datetime="2015-12-02T17:20:45+00:00">2 dicembre 15</time>
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			<div class="description"><p>di MAURO BASSINI</p>
<p>PRIMA la trattoria da Pietro, in via Falegnami, poi Al biassanot in via Piella e infine, da meno di un anno, Il ghiottone. In quasi trent’anni la famiglia Vicini ha cambiato diversi indirizzi ma non la sua cucina tradizionale, semplice e diretta. Nel piccolo e curato locale di via Andrea Costa, tra vecchie foto in bianco e nero e archi di pietra a vista, la clientela è variegata e fedele. Circolano tortellini in brodo, lasagne, tagliatelle con un ragù migliorabile. Ma i piatti più riusciti sono altri: il gustoso sformatino ai porcini, gli ottimi ravioli di ricotta con limone e prosciutto, il tenero e appetitoso guancialino di maiale servito con un purè dall’ormai raro sapore di buone patate. Valide alternative sono i passatelli, la trippa, il cinghiale e una intensa cotoletta petroniana. Tante ricette da amarcord, fin dall’assaggio di benvenuto: stecchi alla bolognese simili a quelli che facevano le nostre nonne, magari consultando l’Artusi, ovvero cubetti di mortadella e formaggio fritti dopo un passaggio in besciamella e panatura. Una piccola e giudiziosa carta dei vini consente scelte soddisfacenti. CUCINA, ambiente e gestione sono familiari come poche: ai fornelli l’esperto Wainer, in sala la moglie Cristina. A supporto di entrambi c’è il figlio Giacomo, cresciuto alla scuola di Gualtiero Marchesi e maturato a Londra. E poi nonna Lea, sfoglina da oscar secondo Anthony Hopkins che quattro anni fa, di passaggio nella trattoria di via Piella, le stampò un memorabile bacio sulla guancia dopo un piatto di tagliatelle. Da svenire lì. Poco è cambiato dal secolo scorso: non la magnifica panna cotta che affianca un notevole semifreddo al malaga, e nemmeno le belle tovaglie impresse a mano firmate Bertozzi (che non è la trattoria concorrente, ma lo storico marchio tessile romagnolo). Nota di merito per Cristina, padrona di casa sorridente e premurosa, quasi materna anche con i clienti più difficili. Per molti buoni ristoranti la gestione della sala è un problemaccio irrisolto. Qui è un valore aggiunto. bassinimauro@gmail.com</p></div></article><div class="row hidden-mobile">
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